Memphis, Tennessee - Home of the Blues
Built on the banks of the Mississippi and named for its Egyptian counterpart on the Nile, the city of Memphis is probably famed in more songs, films and books than any other American city. Originally the site of native american dwellings, the city became an economic centre due to its excellent inland port, but suffered towards the end of the 1800's. Early in the 20th century the poor working black mans music of the blues started to take shape, and was epitomised by W.C Handy now known as the father of the blues. In the 1950's, the spirit of the blues was captured in white rock and roll, and the city began a climb upwards. Elvis was living in Memphis and recorded his first songs in the legendary Sun Studio, along with many other pioneers. In 1957 Elvis purchased the Graceland estate, and Memphis was irrevocably written into the rock and roll history books.
Three Memphis men of music, (L-R) W.C. Handy, Elvis and BB King.
Beale Street is the legendary home of the blues clubs and bars. Deserted during the daytime by all but a few tourists, this street comes alive in the evening with the aroma of restaurants and the sound of music. Many of these clubs were the stomping ground for the musical legends of our time. Elvis used to buy his clothes here, in a mens store which is now converted into a restaurant that bears his name, accross the street is BB Kings blues club, where he frequently makes unannounced live appearances. Just around the corner from Beale St is the Memphis Music Hall of Fame where you can trace the history of the music.
From the waterfront, the famous "Memphis Queen" and other paddle steamers make frequent tours along the river in the style of Mark Twain. Located in the river is Mud Island, which features a museum celebrating thousands of years of Mississippi civilisation. It also includes a half mile walk along a scale model Mississppi, from its birth in the mountains until it reaches the Carribean ocean at New Orleans 1000 miles later. Detailed along the way are historic plaques giving account of battles, towns that were washed away in floods and illustrations of how the river has shaped the life of so many. The arrival in New Orleans is celebrated with a fountain, which on a hot August day provided a refreshing cool spray.
Mud Island is also home to the famous Memphis Belle. A 2nd World War B17 bomber which inspired the book and film.
Memphis also features as a metropolis of East Arkansas, West Tennessee and Northern Mississippi and carries vital communications accross the river. The interstate 40 bridge, officially titled as the Hernando Desoto Memorial bridge,
is often known as "M" for Memphis, "M" for Mississippi, or apparently to local boatmen as the Dolly Parton bridge.
A mile or so east of downtown, on Union Avenue is the historic Sun Studio. The building was leased in 1950 for a 10 year period, by a radio announcer to record some of the blues acts who performed in town. Little did he know that in
1954 he would record a demo song from Elvis Aaron Presley, and the world would never be the same again. Elvis was with Sun records for only three years and 4 songs before being signed upto RCA in 1957 for $36,000. [see Nashville]
Many other great pioneers of rock and roll also recorded here in those days, including Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison and of course, BB King. Although the studio closed in 1960 and was derelict for sometime, it was restored and re-opened in the early 90's
and once again is available for hire.
Yes Folks. Elvis sang into this Microphone!........
Prior to fame Elvis lived in public housing accomodation in Northern Memphis with his parents. In 1957 he paid $? million for a mansion on the southside. Come and join me on a look round Graceland.
All in Memphis was not rocking though during the 50's and 60's, however. It's river trading status was dwindling, unemployment was growing, and in the face of the civil rights movement there was some tension within the cities large, African-American community.
A 1968 strike amongst city garbage collectors had been running for sometime, and in a rallying call, Dr Martin Luther King was due to make keynote speech. On the 4th of April he was booked to stay at the Lorraine Motel in Mulberry St, along with several of his advisors.
However, he was never to make that speech. The Lorraine Motel has now been turned into the National Civil Rights Museum and tells the story of the fight for equality, recognition and justice amongst America's coloured population. It is the only "National" museum to be located outside of Washington DC.
Needless to say, once the idea of turning the still-occupied Motel into a museum had been proposed, the politicians were quick to jump on the bandwagon and provide the millions of dollars required. This scheme is not without it's critics, especially among some who knew and worked beside Dr King. He would not want to be remembered in a
multi-million dollar museum, bringing little direct benefit to the people he stood up for. A much better use and fitting tribute would be low cost housing for the poor, or a training centre where the unemployed can learn new skills. One of the most vocal opponents of the museum is Jacqueline Smith, the motels last resident who was evicted from her
long term stay in order to bring in the developers. Vowing that she would not leave, she set up camp on the opposite of the street, and has lived there since 1988 continuing to voice her opposition day and night.
"I just think the Lorraine could be put to better use as a place to help the hungry, homeless, and unemployed," Smith says. "Dr. King wouldn’t have wanted $9 million spent on a building for him. He wouldn’t have wanted the people who lived there to be thrown out. He wouldn’t have wanted this place to be turned into a fancy tourist trap." - quote from the "Memphis Flyer" by Mark Jordan.
See here for an article from the Memphis Flyer on the Civil Rights movements and Jacquelines plight.
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